Signet
Often considered the “gentleman’s ring,” the signet ring has
been around since the days of the Old Testament, when it was used as a personal
signature or symbol of family heritage. Typically it bore a family crest or
another symbol representing an individual on its distinguishable flat bezel. A
design was usually engraved (often in reverse) either directly into the metal
of the ring or an inset gem, and then pressed into wax or clay to create the
personal seal, or signature.
“Signet rings have been around since people wore jewelry,”
says Beatrice Behlen, senior curator of fashion and decorative arts at the
Museum of London. “They seem to always have been popular, but I believe they
became more popular with the rise of the bourgeoisie. Members of the middle
class would not have a coat of arms, so having a signet ring would be a
prominent sign to show that you are of a higher class.”
Popularity Today
Despite the fact that the primary purpose is lost (how many
times do you sign forms through your computer these days?), the style is still
popular and worn by men, and women, all around the world—just in a more modern
way. According to Mark Ruff of Ruffs—a fifth-generation family-owned jeweler in
Southhampton, England—there has been an upturn in signet ring sales in the last
three to four years. Beyond the price of gold coming down and society's
obsession with royal or heraldic traditions, he says that it's a cyclical
generational thing. "We are presently experiencing a lot of sales to the
offspring of previous customers as their children come of age and want to
invest in something traditional to represent their family ties," said
Ruff.
Today’s jewelry designers create signet rings with no
initials or design that are still meant to be a discreet display of prestige or
pride by the wearer.
